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Gas Oven Won't Heat but Burners Work? Check the Igniter

When the stovetop burners fire up fine but the oven stays cold, the igniter is 90% of the problem. Replace it in 30 minutes — the part costs less than a service call.

Category:Appliances
Difficulty:Moderate
Time:30 min
Success:50%
Updated:May 21, 2026

quick_referenceQuick Answer

For Gas Oven Won't Heat but Burners Work? Check the Igniter, start with "Confirm the igniter is glowing but gas isn't flowing": Stop cranking the temperature dial. Set the oven to 350°F and watch through the bottom panel gap. You should see an orange glow at the burner tube within 30-60 seconds. If the igniter glows for 90+ seconds without the gas lighting, or never glows at all, the igniter is the problem. If you smell gas during this test, shut everything off immediately and call a pro — that indicates the gas valve is opening without ignition. Stop DIY if you smell gas at any point during testing — the gas valve may be leaking or opening without ignition. evacuate and call the gas company. This is listed as a moderate recovery and usually takes about 30 min.

verifiedGuide Snapshot

Repair areaAppliances
Estimated time30 min
DifficultyModerate
Stop conditions4

Last updated May 21, 2026. Review the stop conditions before continuing.

account_treeRecovery State

DeviceGas Oven
Current stateWont Heat
Specific stateIgniter Glows No Gas
Failed stepBake Ignition
Likely failure typeElectrical Fault
DIY boundaryProfessional likely
paymentsCost decision

help1. Understand the Problem

Gas ovens use a silicon carbide or nitride hot-surface igniter that glows white-hot to open the gas valve. Over years of cycling, the igniter weakens. It still glows — you'll see the orange light — but it can no longer draw enough current to trip the safety valve. This often happens after 5-8 years of regular use.

build_circle2. Try This First

Best First Step

Confirm the igniter is glowing but gas isn't flowing

Stop cranking the temperature dial. Set the oven to 350°F and watch through the bottom panel gap. You should see an orange glow at the burner tube within 30-60 seconds. If the igniter glows for 90+ seconds without the gas lighting, or never glows at all, the igniter is the problem. If you smell gas during this test, shut everything off immediately and call a pro — that indicates the gas valve is opening without ignition.

visibility3. Visual Guidance

See what's happening and how to try the first recovery step.

1
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Cut power and gas to the ovenUnplug the range or flip the breaker. Pull the range out and close the gas shutoff valve behind it. If the connector is rigid pipe and you can't reach the valve easily, at minimum cut the power — the gas valve won't open without current anyway.
2
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Remove the bottom oven panel and burner coverOpen the oven door fully. Lift out the bottom floor panel — it usually tilts up at the back and slides forward. Unscrew the metal burner cover plate to expose the burner tube and igniter assembly. Most are held by two hex-head screws.
3
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Swap the igniter and testThe igniter connects to the oven wiring harness with a plastic Molex plug or two wire nuts. Take a photo of the wiring before disconnecting. Mount the new igniter with the same screws, reconnect the wires, reassemble the covers, restore power, and test at 350°F. The igniter should glow bright and the gas should light within 60 seconds.

autorenew4. If That Doesn't Work

Try the next recovery options.

electrical_services
Test the igniter with a multimeterIf you own a multimeter, a healthy igniter should draw 3.2-3.6 amps when powered. Below 3.0 amps and it can't open the gas valve. Disconnect one wire and measure in series — if you're not comfortable working with live circuits, skip this and just swap the igniter.
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bolt
Check the bake element if it's an electric ovenIf you have an electric oven (not gas), the bake element is a metal rod at the bottom that should glow red. No glow = failed element. Easy swap — two screws and two wire terminals.
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warning
Inspect the gas safety valveIf you swapped the igniter, it glows bright, but gas still doesn't flow, the gas safety valve itself may be stuck or failed. This requires gas line disconnection — call a pro unless you're experienced with gas fittings.
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Frequently Asked Questions

Will the oven igniter still glow if it's bad?expand_more
Yes, that's the most confusing part. A failing igniter still glows orange but can't pull enough amps to open the gas valve. If you see the glow but no flame after 90 seconds, the igniter is weak, not dead.
How much does an oven igniter cost?expand_more
Universal replacement igniters run $20-40 at appliance parts stores or online. OEM specific to your brand run $40-80. Either way it's far less than a $150-250 service call plus parts markup.
Can I light the oven manually with a match?expand_more
No. Modern gas ovens use a safety interlock — the gas valve will not open unless the igniter draws enough current to prove it's hot. Holding a match near the burner does nothing because no gas is flowing.
Why do the stovetop burners still work if the oven igniter is bad?expand_more
Stovetop burners use a completely separate ignition system — either a piezoelectric spark igniter or a different hot-surface module. The oven igniter failure doesn't affect the cooktop at all.

warning5. Stop DIY If

Don't continue if any of these apply.

reportYou smell gas at any point during testing — the gas valve may be leaking or opening without ignition. Evacuate and call the gas company.
reportThe igniter wiring is charred, melted, or has bare copper showing — there's been an electrical fault in the oven.
reportThe gas connector is rigid pipe or corrugated tubing that you can't confidently disconnect and reconnect.
reportYou hear hissing from the gas valve even with the oven off — that's a stuck-open valve and a fire hazard.
Still stuck?Get personalized help with AI Recovery.

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This page provides general DIY guidance.
If you're unsure, it's always best to consult a professional.